nderstanding the intricate variations and complexities of uniform sizing can be quite challenging in today's world, where ready-to-wear clothing dominates the market. Unlike the early 20th century, when individuals frequently relied on neighbourhood tailors to create custom garments tailored to their specific measurements, modern consumers tended to choose off-the-rack options without much thought to personal fit.
Interestingly, the German army during World War II approached uniform production similar to how they have done since the days of the Imperial German Army. They pre-produced a range of uniform styles and sizes, allowing for a selection that could be readily available off the rack, as well as offering regimental quartermasters the option to order custom-sized uniforms. This system minimized the need for subsequent professional alterations, enabling soldiers to receive uniforms that were relatively well-suited to their body types.
In this article, we will unpack the marking codes found on German uniforms from the World War II era, offering a deeper understanding of their sizing system and addressing common misconceptions that exist around this topic. Through this exploration, we aim to clarify the complexity of sizing and provide a more comprehensive view of military apparel from that significant period in history.
What markings can one find on Wehrmacht WWII Uniform?
Wehrmacht and SS uniforms, were marked with codes to indicate the Clothing depot supplying the regiments in the region, the size of the uniform piece, and occasionally the manufacturer name, replaced by RB-number after mid-1942.
Uniform Marking System Overview
In all pieces of clothing, one would typically find 3 main piecs of information on the lining. This is the case for tunics, coats and trousers.
Manufacturer: Typically found above the size stamps on jacket and coats, but on trousers it can also be found separately next the front buttons. From Mid-1942, Reichsbetriebsnummerung system was introduced and this code was gradually replacing the manufacturer name.
Sizes: A grouping of sizes that correspond to different parts of the garment. For Luftwaffe and heer, one typically finds 5 sizes for the jacket and 4 for the trousers, however these were reduced later in the war, whereas the Kriegsmarine had a reduced set of numbers on most of their uniforms.
Depot Codes: There were several depots by the different branches of the Wehrmacht and SS. They were from all over greater germany (some of which are cities that today are in Austria, Poland and Czech Republic).
Reading the measurements
The measurement numbers in centimeters for jackets and coats cover five distinct portions, which, according to this example, correspond to the:
HOLZ & BINKOWSKI - the name of the manufacturer
41: Back length of the torso (back of neck to waist)
48: Collar size
94: Chest size
116: Overall length
63: Sleeve length
LBA 39: Indicates the depot (LuftwaffeBekleidungsAmt) and year of processing
Do note that these measurements correspond to the size of the wearer and not the actual size of the garment.
It must have been early 2017 when I was first asked to produce a 2nd pattern jump smock. Back then, there were still other reproductions available on the market and many reenactors where highlighting incorrect features that they wanted fixed in a new production.
It was also a time when my focus was not on creating camouflage clothing but rather a small but solid catalogue of Luftwaffe uniforms. Even though it was possible source plain green fabric that looked right, it was decided that it was not time for us to venture into such a project. With respect to the values we hold when doing our work, and to honour the “green devils” with a job well done, this project was not initiated.
We were yet to handle original jump smocks and learn more about the construction of this garment. However, I knew sooner or later I will get back to this, so I went out to the community and asked some key questions on which features were critical and which were desirable features. The feedback that you, the FJ community, had given me was at the ready to hit the ground running as soon as I decided to go ahead with the project.
So, what makes LWS ready to embark on the project, now?
What a journey it has been since 2017. A lot more effort was put into the offerings and in getting more in tune with the community. For over 18 months, Luftwaffe Supplies has been monthly restocking and launching new offerings. At the same time, I have been constantly researching authoritative books and getting my hands on hundreds of original uniforms and equipment. Hungry to learn, every opportunity was a new experience and brought me ever closer to handling a real jump smock.
In mid-2018, I felt that it was time - Both because the community was getting eager for a reproduction, and to assist groups in getting ready for Low-lands and Crete commemorative events in 2020 and 2021. At first, it was researching and analysing original specifications – the 1938 Luftwaffe directive for paratrooper clothing was instrumental in understanding the fine details of fabric composition (trivia: it wasn’t 100% cotton), number of threads used etc.
But this kind of research only takes you so far and I needed to cross reference the findings with an actual sample. It was only late last year that an opportunity proposed to acquire a smock out of a collection and be able to deconstruct it.
Let’s cut to the chase - What is the progress of project now?
I believe this will come as great news - We have an M38 Type II smock in hand! To be 100% honest, it’s the first Military-quality reproduction – and it’s dated 1941.
I can hear you say: A reproduction? But you said original?
Yes and Yes. What we have in hand is the rare original British Step-in jump smock that is an exact copy (you can say, a reproduction - although not exactly true) of a German smock, captured during the first operations in the west.
With no previous airborne experience and jump specific equipment, the British made a direct copy of the m38 smock and field tested in operations like the Bruneval Raid in February of 1942. All the features, construction composition, zipper placements and extra room in the seat are confirmed to match the original German production jump smock.
But you said you copied original fabric too?
Yes, I also did that. We were able to get a piece of fabric that was cut off as a memento by an Allied soldier in France. This piece of fabric was good enough to get a feel of what the original fabric looked and felt like. An original piece of fabric together with the original specifications from 1938 is an unbeatable way of producing the most authentic fabric.
Finally, I want to share with you the progress and status of the entire project, with the promise of delivering correctly, and with a price tag that doesn't break the bank (we should be able to confirm the price in a few weeks).
Our Grünmeliert fabric
Simply nothing to add. Front piece is an original cutoff, the back fabric is our reproduction.
Today we're taking a closer look at a rare shell for a guns used by at least 3 armies during the war, and which remained in service for generations with countless other armies. Here's a closer look at the German-Made 152mm shell for the Russian Field Howitzers.
not all reproductions of Luftwaffe tropical trousers are faithful in the application of friction buckles. If these are attached incorrectly, then the internal belt would become useless. Here's why this happens and how it can be fixed easily.
Typical example – we finally get our hands on another piece of equipment, this time, of higher quality. It could be a better fliegerbluse; or perhaps after a lot of personal convincing, we get ourselves a parade Tuchrock, not because we really need it (once a year is good enough right?), but because its darn classy. One might go the extra mile and have it tailored for the perfect fit – then comes the simple part. Sourcing and attaching the insignia. Simple? – yeah right!
If only insignia came pre-attached to the uniforms, with the right detail, shape and stitching (hint hint) …
The Luftwaffe tunic breast eagle
All combat tunics from 1940 onwards carried the Luftwaffe national eagles of the 2nd type, introduced at the beginning of 1937. The threads of the Luftwaffe breast eagle were of a light or linen on backing and cut into shape after embroidery.
As opposed to BEVO insignia, LW breast eagles for tunics were not folded, and thus the raw edges were subject to easy fraying, which if not controlled creates an ugly and unkempt appearance. To reduce this occurrence all Luftwaffe breast eagles on field uniforms (e.g. Fliegerbluse, HBT tunics, Tropical tunics, jump Smocks etc) were always attached with a zig-zag stitch.
Breast eagle on tunic stitched in zig-zag method, to reduce fraying as much as possible. however this still occurred even with light use and washing, as can be noted from this mint tunic.
Zig-zag stitching, as opposed to line stitching, gives extra protection to the raw edges of the eagle from fraying. By keeping the edges sewn, the stitch will lessen the chances of the fabric from unravelling. Since the cotton weave on tropical uniforms was somewhat a loose weave, fraying was very easy to occur. A tight zig-zag stitch would slow down this process during wash and abrasion.
The Luftwaffe tropical shirt breast eagle
In the case of the national eagle on Luftwaffe tropical shirts, the backing of the embroidery was a shirt cotton fabric. In this case the eagle was not trimmed following the shape of the eagle, but rather embroidered on triangular base, with the edges folded (hemmed) before stitched by machine. Since the edges in this case are protected with a fold, line stitching was the quickest application method. This has always been the most useful method when laundering. As you can expect, shirts were washed much more frequently than tunics.
Breast eagle on the tropical shirt was attached in simpler method, because the edges were protected by folded cloth.
In all cases of factory applied eagles on tropical shirts, this method was predominantly observed
The Luftwaffe tropical cap insignia
The tropical side cap (tropen-fliegermutze) was the most widely issued headgear as part of the tropical outfit. The insignia for the cap, like the continental version, consisted of 2 parts – the cap eagle, and cockade with the national colours (black, white, red). To prevent fraying, all side caps had triangular eagles with folded edges, a miniature version of the shirt insignia (with less detail). The cockade, was also embroidered on tan cotton, with the edges rolled on the inside and stitched in place.
Side-cap insignia was attached by hand, not machine, possibly due to the thickness of overlapping fabric at the front. This was typically done using a cotton thread in tan.
As for LWS tropical uniforms ..
I hope that this has helped you with identifying the right insignia and application for your uniforms. If you also share the pain of apply insignia to your uniforms, it is good to know that our upcoming tropical uniforms will come with pre-attached insignia, in the right method.
